JULIAN HITNER TORONTO WINE CONSULTANT

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JULIAN'S FINE WINE BLOG

Terrific old (and young) Burgundy

Posted by hitnerwine on November 2, 2007 at 10:54 AM
Exploring the cellars (and the housed wines) of Burgundy

While in France during (most of) the month of October 2007, I was fortunate enough to gain admittance to some of the most prestigious wine houses of Burgundy, from Domaine M?o-Camuzet to Joseph Drouhin (among others).

In the former house, in the course of just around half an hour, I was guided through the entire barrel range of the yet-to-be-bottled 2006 vintage. It is not often I am able to sample so many astonishing wines in one setting; and yet each wine was so brilliant and unique that it is near-firmly ingrained into my memory just weeks later. Not to brag, but I do possess an usually powerful recollection for such things as taxes and tastes.

As would be expected, the most wonderful wine of the lot at Camuzet was the Richebourg. Very closed on the nose, the palate was only starting to reveal even the minutest subtleties one associates with a wine of such wonder. I thank Nicholas for the honour of being able to sample an item that will probably cost, per bottle, more than my flight to France!

At Joseph Drouhin, the wines sampled were, not being barrel samples, much more complete and, in some cases, highly developed. My guide for Drouhin was extremely generous in opening up old bottles, and I got  to sample some superb reds and whites from as far back as 1988!

Though each wine was spectacular unto itself, my favourite of the lot was a 1990 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru. Dominated by white (and milk) chocolate, the wine held lovely notes of truffles, sweet-earthy scents, and magnificent personality. With the fruit still powerful, I was in awe of this particular wine's complexity. My compliments to terroir and, associatively, the human intervention of the crew at Drouhin --- double-plus good.

So what have I learned from this experience? Rich people are lucky stinking ducks!

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