JULIAN HITNER - TORONTO WINE CONSULTANT

"For love of everything that is wine"


NEED SOME WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE WEEK?

I CAN HELP

When you taste as much wine as I do, you come to notice that some wines tend to really stand above the rest in both overall quality and price.

And so, for those of you who have made the trek to my website, I am happy to recommend four different wines every two weeks --- two reds and two whites, as well as some food-pairing suggestions to go with them!

ALSO: Please be sure to check my WINE ARCHIVE for recommendations from previous weeks.

PLEASE NOTE: Images of wine recommendations might not match actual recommendation!

WINES OF THE WEEK FOR SATURDAY, AUGUST 30, 2008

Rediscovering Ancient Wines:

For all intents and purposes, the vast majority of even the most committed wine enthusiasts tend to avoid drinking wines from grape varietals of which they are not entirely familiar. This ought not to come as a great surprise, as it can be risky to spend hard-earned cash on wines made from grape varietals one has not heard of.
 
It is a shame, then, that so many people are missing out on a some truly fine wines, from ancient grape varietals that have only recently been rediscovered for their unique characteristics and notable quality.
 
That is why I am recommending wines this week from grapes most people are probably only hearing about for the first time. I hope everyone enjoys them!

RED WINES

(1) Boutari
      -'Grande Reserve'
      -
Xinomavro (grape varietal)
      -Naoussa
, Greece
      -Vintage 2001
       (DRINK NOW OR HOLD)
      -L.C.B.O. PRICE: $14.95
       (available at many L.C.B.O. outlets)
      -L.C.B.O. # 140111
      -8.25/10


COMMENT: As many people are well aware, Greece has an exceptionally long history of making wine with indigenous grape varietals. The trouble is that it is only quite recently that Grecians have begun to realize the awesome potential of their local grapes. In my opinion, Xinomavro, a full-bodied, tannic red-grape varietal holds excellent promise; and the '01 Boutari 'Grand Reserve' would seem to confirm such a notion. With lots of 'black fruit' shadowing a great deal of subtle flavours, it is highly worth trying.

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Braised ribs --- enjoy!

(2) d'Angelo
      -Aglianico (grape varietal)
      -Aglianico del Vulture,
       Basilicata, Italy
      -Vintage 2004
       (DRINK NOW OR HOLD)
      -L.C.B.O. PRICE: $20.95
       (still widely available)
      -L.C.B.O. # 971689
      -8.25/10



COMMENT: Just when we wine enthusiasts thought that Italy has already experienced enough of a 'wine revolution,' Italian winemakers would seem to have ever-greater things in mind. Over the past several years, Italians have begun to pull away from more 'international grape varietals' to focus increasing attention on more local, ancient varietals. Make no mistake, the Aglianico grape varietal is extremely old, and very high in quality. The '04 from d'Angelo is a lovely specimen, with beautiful dark fruit, earth, and a hint of coffee. Plus, it can stay about ten years!

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Grilled pork tenderloin --- enjoy!

WHITE WINES

(1) Agriverde
      -'Riseis de Recastro'

      -Pecorino (grape varietal)
      -Abruzzo (IGT), Italy
      -Vintage 2006
       (DRINK NOW)
      -L.C.B.O. PRICE: $15.95
       (there still some bottles
       lying around in the system)
      -L.C.B.O. # 74112
      -8/10



COMMENT: Almost every time I shop in an L.C.B.O. outlet, whenever I see individuals searching for Italian white wine, they inevitably (at least usually) go for Pinot Grigio or Soave (a wine usually made up of Garganega and Trebbiano). And yet, there are countless other white Italian grape varietals; and Pecorino (not to be confused with the cheese) is certainly one worth trying at least once! Boasting tasty citric notes (plus a few apples and pears), the '06 'Riseis de Recastro' is quite refreshing and worthy of purchase.

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Linguine with shrimp in white wine sauce --- enjoy!

(2) Marc Brédif
      -Chenin Blanc (grape varietal)
      -Vouvray, Loire, France
      -Vintage 2006
       (DRINK NOW OR HOLD)
      -L.C.B.O. PRICE: $20.95
       (widely available in most
       L.C.B.O. outlets)
      -L.C.B.O. # 685362
      -8.5/10



COMMENT: Agreed, Chenin Blanc is infinitely better known than the other grape varietals I have mentioned this week. And yet, it is so poorly developed in so many places around the world (at least until recently) that one might very well call it an old grape varietal on the verge of being rediscovered and 're-appreciated.' Nowhere is this more obvious than in Vouvray, a subregion of the Loire Valley, where Chenin Blanc arguably reaches its greatest potential. The '06 Marc Brédif is truly a work of art, with beautiful subtle scents and flavours of flowers, fresh dew and fruit, cream, and a tiny trace of honey! Hopefully, in other parts of the world, quality Chenin Blanc will begin to emerge as well as it has in Vouvray.

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Cantonese shrimp dumplings with cilantro --- enjoy!

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